But Rubondo is more than a water wonderland. Deserted sandy beaches nestle against a cloak of virgin forest. Papyrus swamps host the secretive sitatunga, a shaggy aquatic antelope and the dappled bushbuck, darting fleet footed through the maze of tamarind, wild palm and sycamore fig, strung with a cage of trailing taproots. The malachite kingfisher's azure brilliance competes with the paradise flycatcher's glamorous, flowing tail. Rubondo is home to fish eagles and a global stopover for hundreds of migratory birds. Wild jasmine, 40 different orchids and a smorgasbord of sweet, indefinable smells from the forest greet you.
Ninety percent of the park is humid forest; the remainder ranges from coastal grassland to like side papyrus beds. A number of indigenous mammal species - hippo, bushbuck, monkey, genet and mongoose - share their protected habitat with introduced species, such as chimpanzee, elephant and giraffe, that benefit from Rubondo's inaccessibility.